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Q:  What do I need?
 

A:  There are several variations, so you'll have to check a few things to find out what you need.

 

Rivets, that’s easy:  My BFH-spec. 1917a1/1919 rivets will build most current 1919 parts kits. The "Wrong Rivet Replacement kit" contains the correct #7 diameter Top plate and Rear cartridge stop rivets, and a Forward cartridge stop. These items are either missing, or incorrect in many other sets of rivets. If you buy my BHF-spec. rivets, you will not need them

 

Drill bits:  If your Right side plate has any holes yet to be drilled, you'll probably be better off with the 4-bit set that includes Cobalt 3/16", 11/32" and #7 bits, and a 60 deg. countersink. Even if all holes have been drilled, you may still need to dress the countersinks of the rivet holes.

 

You may also need a pintle hole bit. Compare the pintle hole in your trunion to that in your RSP. The pintle holes in USGI weapons are 9/16". The Israelis drilled most of theirs out to 5/8" and inserted a sleeve. Most Parts kits have 5/8" holes in the trunion, but there are a few 9/16" in inventory. RSP's come with pintle holes ranging from 0" (not yet drilled) to 9/16". A 100% RSP should have a 9/16" pintle hole. If needed, just get a pintle hole bit to drill the hole in your RSP the same size as that in your trunion.

 

Some RSP's require the builder to drill the top cover bolt hole. It's 1/4", and only one hole, so a HSS bit will get you done. I don't include those in the sets because most people have one in their tool box. If not, they're available anywhere.

 

Rivet tools:  If you have a rivet gun, great. My rivet setting tool has a standard .401 shaft, and does a good job on the 3/16" and #7 rivets. I myself use it with a #3 BFH. I also use a 3# hammer on the large Trunion rivets. I also have a fixture to set rivets with a shop press, but if you're only building one, it's probably not worth the trouble. You will also need a bucking bar. Two other board members on www.1919a4.com (Pirate and Tanker) offer them. On my first build I just stacked and clamped scrap bar stock between the Side plates. It was a pain, and they kept slipping out, but it worked.

 

“The Works,” which includes the 4-bit set with pintle hole bit, rivet setting tool and BFH-spec. rivets is $65.00, which includes shipping. If you need a different combination, check the other packages under "Products" on the site. Also check my thread on www.1919a4.com : http://www.1919a4.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12122


 

 

Q: 60 degree? 90 degree? What's up with that?
 
A: The original weapons were built with the then standard 60 degree countersunk rivets. The world has moved on, and now uses 90 degrees as the standard. For years, hobby builders just used commercial 90 degree rivets. When BlackBear had a Mil. spec. set of 60 deg rivets made, they became THE rivets to use. Now two others (me being one of them) are also offering 60 deg. rivets.
 

 
To the best of my knowledge, the countersunk rivets in the available sets are as follows:
  • Mine:  60 degree. (with the exception of the large trunion rivet, which is 90 degree).
  • BlackBear:  60 degree.
  • Ohio Rapid Fire:  90 degree.
  • Tapco:  90 degree.
  • Allied Armaments:  82 degree.

 

Q: How do I pay with a Credit card?
 
I accept credit cards, but only through PayPal (liability issues). Send funds (transfer or credit card) to account msgorham@burntcapital.com  Just tell me what you want in the notes section.

I've tried to set up a shopping cart on the site, but so far I can't get MS Office Live and PayPal to play nice together.

Q: What size pintle hole bit do I need?
 
A:  Compare the pintle hole in your trunion to that in your RSP. The pintle holes in USGI weapons are 9/16". The Israelis drilled most of theirs out to 5/8" and inserted a sleeve. RSP's come with pintle holes of 9/16", 1/2", and "what hole?" (on some they have not yet been drilled). Just get a pintle hole bit to match the hole in your RSP to that in your trunion.


Q: Do I need any other drill bits?

 

A: Some RSP's require the builder to drill the top cover bolt hole. It's 1/4", and only one hole, so a HSS bit will get you done. I don't include those in the sets because most people have one in their tool box. If not, they're available just about anywhere.

 

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Q: What are the sizes/diameters of the various holes in the Right Side Plate?

 

A: Take them from this drawing.

 


 

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 Q: How is the rear cartridge stop installed?
 
A: The rivet hole is predrilled in most available Right side plates. The stop itself is positioned like this:
 
 
It, and the Pintle pad, are much easier to install prior to the assembly of the "Box."
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Q: Why dont you offer "Mil-spec" rivets?
 
A: People have voiced complaints about every rivet set currently available. Not a single original rivet used in the assembly of a 1919 is a current, off the shelf item. With that in mind, I figured that if every rivet had to be custom made, I might as well have them made exactly the way I wanted them. I decided to put together a set that addressed the shortcomings (no pun intended) of other available sets.  After a good bit of research, consultations, and time spent reading every complaint about every other set of rivets, I now offer the "BFH-spec" set of rivets. Mil. Spec. rivets may have worked for factory weapons built with industrial riveters, but they don’t always work for home builders using bucking bars, rivet guns or a BFH. Also, current commercial steel rivets are made to a higher standard than WWII era specifications, much less a WWI era spec.

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Q: How do I install the Forward Cartridge stop?

To Install the Forward Cartridge stop, first be sure to install it, the Rear Cartridge stop and the right Pintle pad prior to assembling the "box."

Use a piece of 3/4" or 1" bar stock. Drill a 5/16" hole approx. 5/8" deep. If you have a 5/16" end mill and can make the bottom of the hole flat, great. If you're like the rest of us, fill the conical bottom of the hole with fine metal shavings, solder, etc. Hole depth should be such that just a few thousandths of the 5/16" portion of the Cartridge stop protrudes from the hole. This way, both the RSP and Cartridge stop are supported. Peen away. Periodically check the hole depth during peening; the material in the bottom of the hole may become compressed. Add more filler if needed.

Installation of the Forward Cartridge stop after assembly of the "box" is more difficult. One technique I've heard uses the 7.62 Cartridge stop as a bucking bar. Just fill the hole as above, but be very careful. Another option is to shorten the narrow portion of the rivet so that it is approx. 1/16" below the surface of the RSP, and weld it.
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Q:  Can I buy individual Rivets?

 

A:  I get this request a lot. Because of all the extra rivets in the set, there are always plenty left over. The problem with custom rivets is that they must be produced by the thousands. If I made a habit of selling odd sets of rivets, or individual rivets, my inventory would very quickly get out of balance. Also, as with many things, it takes more time/money to put together odd, individual sets, than it does to offer the single, standard set. Do you want to pay more for less stuff? Instead, I put together a high quality, standard set, and offer it for less than half the retail price of the other 60 deg. sets of rivets ($18.00 vs. $40.00).


As a courtesy to tomt, I don't sell individual Front cartridge stops. You can contact him at Karma Metal Products.

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Q:  Why don't you offer a build tutorial?

 

A:  Two reasons: First, I don't believe in reinventing the wheel. Second, I can't do a better job than has already been done. Take a look at the tutorials at www.1919a4.com , including Lobo's build sequence: http://www.1919a4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1093 , or at Pirate's site: http://www.projectguns.com/19192.html .